Furniture Clinic Danish Oil for Wood - Premium Oil to Enhance The Natural Beauty of Oak, Pine & More - Seal & Protect for a Satin Finish. 500ml

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Had I made the box, sanded it and then handed it over to one of you chaps to finish I suspect it would look infinitely better than it does now! As with any coating, surface preparation is extremely important in getting a satisfactory end result. For most indoor furniture, I will move my way up through the sanding grits on a hand-held random orbit sander, beginning at 120, then going to 150 or 180 and finally finishing at 220.

Products like "Danish oil" vary a lot from maker to maker and additionally how much was initially applied, the absorbency of the wood, the temperature and humidity and how thoroughly the excess was wiped away are all factors in the 'drying' time. The Wood Cleaner will remove dirt, grease and any build-up of old waxes or polishes on the wood's surface. It can bring out the wood's warm tones, and the amount of darkening depends on the type of oak and the Danish oil used. In other words, whilst oiling, the coarse texture of the pad is evening out any bumpy patches and it is already removing any raised grain.However, over time it can become brittle from exposure to sunlight, moisture, and other environmental factors. Tung oil offers excellent protection against water and other elements, danish oil will give your oak a long-lasting finish, and beeswax is easy to use. Suitable for both interior and exterior use, its added UV filters help to prevent discolouration from the sun, as well as being water, heat and alcohol resistant.

To ensure your oak is polished correctly and protected, you should consider using Danish oil or beeswax. I would remove the oil you've already applied with white spirit (may take several goes), check with Howdens what they recommend these days and use that instead.As it needs to be treated often to keep its finish, it might require more maintenance than other finishes. Danish oil will feed, enhance and protect both hard and soft woods – penetrating the wood bringing out the natural grain of the timber. Go over the entire surface with light pressure, as if you are trying to polish the surface whilst removing the excess. Personally I prefer to strip off all hardware and lay flat but doing two coats each side had turned into a very long job. After the first and/or second coats have dried, any nibs or raised grain can be removed with a fine grade sandpaper or wire wool (000 or 0000 grade).