WINSOME 2500 Grade Lining Paper for Walls - Heavy Duty Plain White Lining Paper Thick Paintable Kitchen Bedroom Wallpaper Paint Shield for New Damaged Walls - Single 10M Roll

Product Information

Admittedly, lining paper adds an extra step and a little extra cost to the redecoration of walls. That leads many people to ask whether it’s worth it. Put simply, yes, it is. This small, simple step before papering or painting your walls will provide a smooth surface that enhances adhesion for wallpaper, makes painting a breeze and improves the end results for any kind of decoration. By using lining paper, you’ll get a great finish that doesn’t need redecorating again in a few months’ time when you’d otherwise start to notice all the little imperfections. We think that’s definitely worth it. WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF LINING PAPER? If you are hanging lining paper like this 1200 grade lining paper from B&Q horizontally you need to mark down around 10cm from the ceiling. Now measure each roll width — typically 53cm down the wall to see what size strip you have at the bottom. If you have a skinny strip, start further up the wall.

Now you know what lining paper is used for, it's time to decide which type is best for you. You can choose between standard lining paper or paste the wall lining paper, depending on your personal preference. What grade lining paper you use on a decorating project will be determined by the condition of the walls, how much preparation is needed and whether you are going to paint or wallpaper over the lining paper.

ANY MORE QUESTIONS?

Get a spirit level and mark a horizontal line across the wall from corner to corner. Measure how far it is from corner to corner. Now get your lining paper and cut — add an extra 100-200mm to overlap and cut into the corner. Now cut enough full length strips to cover the wall. You should need around five strips. Our lining paper range includes standard lining paper that you apply adhesive to, or paste the wall lining paper. Paste the wall can be easier to hang as you apply the adhesive to the wall rather than the paper, so you don’t have heavy folded paper to hang. For paste the wall lining paper, we recommend using a paint roller to apply the adhesive to the wall. Failure to carry out this step, or do it for the right amount of time, will result in bubbles, lifting of the paper at the seams and a bad finish. PASTE-THE-WALL LINING PAPER Feeling a bit chilly? Lining paper provides additional layers of insulation that'll keep you toasty come the blustery winter months. It traps air between the paper and the wall, containing draughts to keep your home warmer for longer. Perhaps most importantly, you'll also save money on your next energy bill. What are the different types of lining paper?

To manually work out the number of rolls required, use this simple calculation: Step 1: Calculate the length of lining paper needed for one wall. When preparing your walls, you may be wondering whether existing lining paper is a suitable surface for application. In short, it comes down to the condition of your existing paper. If joints are loose or corners are peeling, you’ll need to remove your existing lining paper. However, you can paper over existing lining paper if the wear and tear is merely superficial. ANY MORE QUESTIONS? You (or your clients) will be looking at your walls every day, so any texture or faults will be difficult to ignore. This is even more annoying if you’ve spent a lot of money on your wallpaper. Lining paper is the best way to achieve a flawless finish that will boost the appearance – and longevity – of your DIY. What are the different grades of lining paper? Once you have done the first part of the strip, fold over a 50 cm pasted section onto paper that has already been pasted and repeat until the whole strip is done. This creates a concertina effect that looks a bit like the top of a Viennetta ice cream.

Why should you use lining paper?

Subtract the total from Step 4 from the total in Step 2 to get the total length of lining paper needed for the room (T), excluding the windows and doors. I've seen DIY'ers and a few decorators (wrongly) sponging seams, which will a) potentially weaken the area and b) cause a butt joined seam to expand unnecessarily. This can lead to a seam showing through a thin finish paper or emulsion (it has expanded into an overlapped seam), hence the 1mm gap. It also speeds up the cross-lining process slightly. Incidentally, most decent pulp liners have a smooth and a rough side to them. Smooth side out for paint, rough side out for papering (suction from a rougher, more absorbent surface) helps laminate the top paper over the liner, but getting a bit off topic now.