Lanvin Arpège Eau de Parfum

Product Information

After the aldehydes have settled down there is a creamy, slightly powdery and warm veil of flowers wrapped around me. My experience is valid and many, probably more than you'd expect, will feel the same way or even worse about it. Or maybe a cream from the 90s/00s, I vividly remember that smell but can't pinpoint it except I remember it being at my grandma's place and not in a bad way.

I think I could get to really like this, it's feminine without being sweet which is what I am looking for these days. I think I like it as a skin scent, something I could wear for myself, without imposing my fragrance on other people. By the time I’m in the middle notes I’m already thinking “What a lovely scent this has turned into”. After giving it about 10 to 15 minutes to settle, the complex floral bouquet finally blooms (oh so gorgeous).

When comparing the two (and I wore No 5 exclusively for over twelve years) Arpege is brighter and warmer. Focus on pulse points (neck, wrists etc) and/or spray generously in front of you and walk through for a full coverage. She’ll pop champagne for any occasion, slap someone with her gloves and then give them a kiss on the cheek as they depart. If you spray it once on a sweater, it's somewhat bearable after a week, but my head still hurts and swallowing is painful.

Though I'm not the biggest fan of civet there is no denying how rich and radiant this fragrance wears because of it. I can only discern the sharp smell of lily, which I strongly dislike, overriding a soft powdery floral scent. Then it's flowery, powdery, warm yet "greenish", with a classy vanilla slowly appearing from the background alongside the smooth woodiness. Overall I think lovers of classic fragrances like Chanel 5, Shalimar, even Bal à Versailles will find something to like about this.

There is a nice balance between the lightness of the powder, white flowers and sharp aldehydes with the depth of the woody sandalwood and amber. I use it as a bedtime scent in the colder months as the “old school” soapy smell feels very comforting to me, like when we were young children next to our mums. I do understand that these associations don't correspond to reality: Jeanne Lanvin created it for her beloved daughter, on her musician daughter's 30th birthday, and the name means "arpeggio" in French: broken chords, or the notes of a chord played individually instead of simultaneously. I actually love strong and straight-forward perfumes (namely Mugler's patchouli monster Angel, fishy Womanity, and the slightly fecal Alien Musc Mysterieux), but this is overkill. Warm, almost alcoholic scent, like brandy or rum by the fire, with an ambery overtone and with a hint of powder on the dry down.

This is the kind of perfume I love and I'm thrilled it's so good; complex, calibrated, well-structured and interesting throughout. I get the impression that "lacquered wood" quality is alluding to things like grand pianos and the interior of violins and celli, in keeping with the perfume's musical theme. Fortunately, I did not smell that note off me or get anything animalic aside from a nice inviting warmth. The beautiful dark black flacon with its luxurious golden lid has been designed by Armand-Albert Rateau and strongly reflects the Art Deco culture and clearly announces the magic potion hidden inside it.Other than that, between the top and middle notes, they are two different fragrances to me, so I don't understand why there are not two review pages. If you don't like powdery iris that tickles your nose like the perfume of the older ladies at church on Sunday morning then you're not going to enjoy this one. It is a bold yet elegant floral bouquet, brightened up top by citrus and Chanel-like aldehydes, becoming wonderfully woody as it progresses.